Chaotic, colourful, and full of contradictions β Antananarivo (or simply "Tana") is a city that baffles, intrigues, but also charms. It's not always love at first sightβ¦ but give it a day, and it may well grow on you.
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Antananarivo β nicknamed Tana by locals and those who canβt cope with the full name β is Madagascarβs high-altitude capital. 'Tana is a brightly coloured melange of French colonial architecture, multi-storied houses, and narrow alleys. Itβs sprawled over the rolling hills of the central highlands of Madagascar, overlooking Β rice paddies below.
Perched at 1,280 metres (4,200 ft) in, it enjoys a mild climate with cool nights and crisp mornings, particularly in the winter months of June to August.
The city is a blend of French colonial architecture, tiled-roof houses, narrow cobbled alleys, and stone staircases linking one street to another. Traders line each street with the array of merchandise on offer in the stalls. And the markets are in a class of their own.
Tana is divided into an Upper and Lower Town, each offering its own perspective on this fascinating city. Itβs a city made for walking, so we recommend flat shoes!
I enjoy its romantic charm and bustling streets, but the city is quite often a shock to many first time visitors. There are throngs of people, buildings in a state of decay, and hectic traffic in a warren of streets. Everywhere the narrow cobblestone streets are packed with houses.
But thereβs a richness here too: in the street markets, the layered history, and the daily rhythm of Malagasy life. Tana may not be beautiful in the traditional sense, but itβs real β and deeply atmospheric.
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Youβll usually need to stay in an Antananarivo hotel for at least one or two nights β due to flight timings and logistics. But not all hotels are created equal, and your experience can vary widely depending on where you stay.
Our Top Tips:
If you are flying in and out the following day?Β Stay near the airport at reliable properties like Relais des Plateaux or Nosy Manga Hotel.
Want a real taste of Tana? Spend at least night in the city at one of their uniquely characterful hotels. Tana Β Hotels offer panoramic views, a stronger sense of place, and access to city walking tours and markets.
Just want to relax?Β Antananarivo hotels close to the βWaterfrontβ, Β such as the Radisson Blu, offer more of an international vibe.
If time permits, we include a half day tour of the Old city, including a stop off at one of the chocolatiers. But it can be easily explored under your own steam.
Wander through narrow cobbled alleys, stone staircases, and pastel-coloured houses that climb the hills. The architecture is uniquely Malagasy-colonial, and the street life is endlessly watchable. Here youβll find the Queens Palace (see next)
Perched on the cityβs highest hill, this once-majestic royal compound offers sweeping views over the capital. Itβs been partially restored after a fire and gives insight into Madagascarβs monarchy and complex colonial past.
Tana has a bean-to-bar chocolate scene! This local institution offers chocolate tastings and insight into Madagascarβs fine cocoa β a surprisingly delicious stop in the city centre.
A treasure trove of Malagasy crafts: embroidered linens, wood carvings, handmade baskets, vanilla, and semi-precious stones. Bring cash β and prepare to bargain!
A short drive from the city, this sacred royal hill is a UNESCO World Heritage Site β once the spiritual and political heart of the Merina kingdom. Peaceful and leafy, itβs a refreshing contrast to the capitalβs bustle.
Weβll help you choose the right Antananarivo hotel for your Madagascar tour β whether itβs a quick stopover, a base for a couple of days, or a final night before flying out.
Lokanga Boutique Hotel was my favourite hotel in Tana by quite a margin. It lies high above the city, a stoneβs throw from the Queens Palace. The view from the terrace is superb and you enjoy the sense of being above the considerable bustle of the city. However what really makes Lokanga Hotel stand out is their attention to detail and very friendly personal service...